Keeping Out Old Man Winter, Written By: Nancy Peterson, Cat Programs Manager for The Humane Society of the United States

FROM CAT CHAT WITH CAREN AND CODY:This is a guest post by Nancy Peterson, Cat Programs Manager for The Humane Society of the United States. We thank Nancy as always for her superb contributions to our blog!

Winter is the perfect time to accustom your pet to being an indoor-only cat. An indoor lifestyle is safer for cats and also protects wildlife from injury or death caused by outdoor cats.

However, some outdoor cats don’t want to come indoors because they’re feral – too afraid of people to be handled or adopted into homes. Strays, friendly outdoor cats with no known owners, also live outdoors if no one adopts them. Feral and stray cats are known collectively as community cats, and they deserve our concern and care.

Photo Courtesy of  Neighborhood Cats

Many people feed community cats, but it’s Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) that will really be effective and reduce their numbers, nuisance behavior complaints, and public health concerns. With TNR, community cats are spayed or neutered, vaccinated against rabies, identified as sterilized with an ear tip (1/4 of the tip of the ear, usually the left, is surgically removed), and if healthy, returned to the area where they were found. Ideally, a caretaker provides community cats with shelter, food and water, monitors them for injury or illness, and traps any new cats who appear.

A caretaker’s role is especially critical during winter when even the most resourceful community cats need a helping hand. A properly-sized shelter is essential because one that’s too big makes it harder for the cat’s body heat to warm the interior. If you’re caring for several cats, provide shelters that accommodate three to five cats who will stay warm by huddling together. You can build a simple or a more elaborate shelter or buy a pre-made shelter. If you choose to build your own, scrap weather-proofed lumber may be available at low or no cost from a home supply store.

Photo Courtesy of
Christopher Humby
of Scaredy Cat Rescue

Make the door of the shelter just big enough for the cat to fit through and face the opening in a way to prevent wind, rain, and snow from entering. Place the shelter where it’s hidden from public view but allows you access, and elevate the shelter slightly off the cold ground. If possible, also try to place the shelter in a sunny spot against a warm building or near bushes that keep their leaves all year to provide additional protection from nature’s elements. For extra security, camouflage the shelter with branches and leaves.

Since hay may irritate kitty noses and cause allergic reactions, stuff the shelter with a thick layer of straw into which cats can burrow and stay warm. You can also stuff pillowcases with shredded newspaper or packing peanuts. On especially cold nights, provide microwaveable discs, which hold heat for 12 hours. Don’t use folded newspaper, towels, or blankets because they absorb body heat.

If it’s really cold and you can’t regularly check the shelter, avoid straw and stuffed pillowcases and line the shelter’s inner walls, floor, and ceiling with Mylar. It won’t draw heat from a cat resting on it, but will reflect back the cat’s body heat. If you have access to electricity, you can buy an outdoor heated cat shelter or heated bed to place in the shelter. Avoid salt or chemicals to remove snow or melt ice around the shelter or feeding station. These products may irritate paws or be toxic if licked.

Food and water bowls can be placed in a hidden feeding station made of a large plastic container situated on its side. So that cats don’t have to go far to access their food and water, place the container near the shelter, which will help them conserve energy and warmth.

Cats may be chilled by eating frozen food and keeping canned food from freezing in the winter may be challenging. One option is to warm canned food at home and then place it in insulated bags for transport. You can also place canned food inside a well-insulated shelter far from the doorway, which may allow the cat’s body heat to defrost it if it freezes. To avoid this potential problem all together, you may decide to feed dry food only.

Despite their thicker fur and toasty shelter, cats use more energy keeping warm when it’s cold, so feeding them a higher calorie food may be helpful. However, don’t feed so much food that there are leftovers that attract other animals, including wildlife. 

Photo Courtesy of
Christopher Humby
of Scaredy Cat Rescue

A thick plastic container that is deep and wide will keep water from freezing longer than a thin plastic or ceramic container. You can also mix sugar or salt into the water, which will lower its freezing point. Salt will lower the freezing point a bit better than sugar. Start with a half to one level teaspoon of either in one quart of water and adjust the amount as needed. Don’t place water in the shelter because the cats will get chilled if it spills and avoid metal bowls since their tongues can stick to the metal. You can also remove a tire from its metal rim, stuff it with rocks, and place a water-filled plastic container in the center space. The black tire will absorb heat from the sun and warm the rocks enough to keep the water from freezing. A solar-heated water bowl is an even simpler option that can prevent or delay freezing.

Even their thick winter undercoat won’t protect cats from frostbite if they’re exposed to severe cold for a prolonged period of time. Frostbite, the loss of blood circulation, can affect a cat’s ear tips, nose, tail, toes, and any body part where the hair is thin. If the early signs of frostbite – pale, gray, or bluish areas – aren’t treated as soon as they appear, the skin in those areas may ultimately die. You may see swelling, blisters, and black or dead skin as circulation returns and the skin thaws. If you can touch the cat, the area may be cold, brittle, and painful. Frostbite is not to be taken lightly so seek veterinary care right away.

Community cats live in many places in the United States, Canada, and around the world where winter climates challenge their survival. Thanks to TNR resources in those places and dedicated caretakers, community cats have full tummies and warm shelters when old man winter comes calling.

The Uninvited Guest: Successfully Introducing a New Cat into the Household – or Not

FROM CAT CHAT WITH CAREN AND CODY:This is a guest post by Nancy Peterson, Cat Programs Manager for The Humane Society of the United States. We thank Nancy as always for her super contributions to our blog!

"Luna"
Photo Courtesy of Nancy Peterson

My sister and I adopted 1-year-old sisters Zubi and Luna in September 2002 and our home in Maryland was all theirs for seven and a half years. They were cuddle cats – mostly with each other –and although I loved them, I yearned for a cat to cuddle with me. My sister knew that I met wonderful shelter cats at my job, so before I left for any trip my sister would say, “and don’t bring home any cats.”

In January 2006, I visited a shelter in Florida and had the opportunity to choose three shelter cats for that day’s filming of a CD about caring for adopted cats. As soon as I entered the cat enclosure to meet the cats, a brown tabby flew across the room and leaped into my lap. He immediately started licking my face, kneading my arm, and purring up a storm. I chose two other friendly cats and we went to the studio.

The brown tabby popped out of the first carrier I opened, walked all around the room, and greeted everyone – unlike most cats I knew who would probably hide or slink around when confronted with a new situation.

After the cat made his rounds, I was directed to play with him, brush him and feed him. Then, I was asked to trim his nails. As soon as I sat down, the cat was in my lap, licking my face, kneading my arm and purring. Once filming wrapped up, the cats were returned to the shelter.

I could not stop thinking about the friendly brown tabby and immediately called the shelter when I woke up the next morning to say that I wanted to adopt him. Then I called my sister who said it was okay. The shelter told me the cat, Tobias, was 10 years old, but I did not care because I loved his personality.

"Toby"
Photo Courtesy of Nancy Peterson

I renamed the cat Toby and confined him for several weeks on the first level of our house in order to introduce him properly to Zubi and Luna. Fortunately, I could keep them apart because a glass door separated the first and second levels. Since I did not want them to see each other, I covered the glass with newspaper and fed them for several weeks on opposite sides of the door so they’d associate each other with good things. One day, I tore away a teeny corner of the newspaper. When Zubi and Luna saw Toby, they hissed and fled upstairs. They never came down again.

During the years, I tried to gradually introduce Toby to the girls. I took him upstairs, initially on a harness and leash so I could control him, and offered them food bribes and catnip, filled the air with the sounds of a cat-calming CD and calming scents, and played with them so they’d associate one another with good things. I couldn’t make it work, so I put a bell on Toby’s collar to let the girls know when he’d escaped the first level and was headed their way.

Animal shelters and rescue groups have cats of every age, size, color and activity level. They can help you choose the right cat so you’ll have a better chance of a harmonious household. If you think you’ll ultimately want two cats, adopt two at the same time – adults who are already strongly bonded or kittens.

When you adopt a cat from an animal shelter or rescue group, they‘ll likely know about the cat’s personality and activity level, which, if similar to your cat’s, can improve the odds that they’ll get along. Another benefit of adopting from an animal shelter or rescue group is that the cat will likely have been examined, vaccinated, and spayed or neutered. Adoption will also save that cat’s life and make a cage available for another homeless cat.

If you adopt a stray, have him or her examined by your veterinarian before you bring the cat into your home. In addition to confining the new cat for a proper introduction, confining him or her for quarantine is important in case he’s incubating an illness that could be passed to your other cat. Wherever your new cat comes from, be sure your current cat or cats are up to date on their vaccinations as well.

When you add a cat to your household, it’s important to increase resources – such as water, food bowls, litter boxes, toys, vertical space and beds. Fill your cats’ indoor environment with opportunities to hunt (toys), relax in the sun (on a window perch), and scratch (a post or pad). Preventing cat behaviors you don’t want is easier than eliminating them. Reading The Humane Society of the United States’ Cat Answer Tool before you introduce cats will be helpful since most cats are quite territorial and dislike change.

Introducing cats improperly, such as allowing them to “work things out,” punishing, yelling at, or scaring them, can lead to years of bad blood between cats or a cat’s return or surrender to an animal shelter or rescue group.

You can also increase the chance cats will get along by spaying and neutering them because unsterilized cats are usually more territorial and aggressive. Spaying and neutering pet cats before puberty at four to six months of age has many health benefits and plays a critical role in reducing cat overpopulation. If you’re feeding community (feral and stray) cats outdoors, find an organization that supports Trap-Neuter-Return programs, which attempt to curb overpopulation through sterilization. The Humane Society of the United States has a free online Supporting Community Cats webinar series, which has lots of information about how to best help community cats.

Photo Courtesy of Nancy Peterson

If you have unsuccessfully tried to make peace between your pet cats, keep them separated and consult a local shelter or rescue group, your veterinarian, or a cat behavior specialist for assistance sooner rather than later. There are no winners in cat fights.

Meow, Purr, Hiss – Understanding Talkative Cats By: Nancy Peterson, Cat Programs Manager for The Humane Society of the United States

 One day, Kathy, a client of the veterinary clinic where I worked as a registered veterinary technician, called to confirm our lunch date for the next day. During the call she says, “By the way, a long-haired tri-color cat has been meowing at my door for days. I think her family moved and left her behind.” I immediately asked, “Do you mean a long-haired calico?” I’d been saying for at least a year that my next cat would be a long-haired calico. Could this be her?

When I arrived, the cat was crying at Kathy’s door. “Isn’t Meow Meow beautiful?” Kathy said. That’s what Kathy called the cat because she was very talkative. Poor kitty, she really wanted to get inside. After lunch, I got a better look at her and because the veterinarian I worked for was an angel and often helped homeless cats, I thought it would be okay to bring Meow Meow to the clinic.

Although it was my day off, I drove Meow Meow to the clinic. She didn’t make a peep in the car. After one of the veterinarians examined her and drew blood to test her for feline leukemia, I vaccinated her and gave her a flea bath. She was a great little patient. I was starting to fall in love. “Okay, Meow Meow,” I told her as I prepared to leave for the day, “If your feline leukemia test is negative, I’m going to take you home and introduce you to my cat, Buddy.”

"Daisy" Photo Courtesy of The HSUS

That was the beginning of my wonderful relationship with Meow Meow. Although I renamed her Daisy, she stayed true to her original name, and the house became very quiet when she died at 19 years of age.

You may not know that the meow is rarely used between cats. They rely more on body language and scents than vocalization to communicate with each other, although vocalizations may be used as well. Even we humans understand that a growl, hiss or scream means a cat is stressed. He or she could be saying, “I’m upset because I see a cat outside the window,” “I’m afraid because I don’t like having my nails clipped” or “I’m in pain when you touch me there.”

However, recognizing the meaning of cat body language on its own is not something that most people have mastered. Many are bitten or scratched for failing to take heed of the twitching skin, swishing tail, and grabbing paw that may indicate that a cat is getting upset. That’s because people communicate primarily through verbal language. Leave it to our clever cats to crack the code to effectively communicate with us.

Joelyne King's Cat, NarniaPhotographer: Meredith Lee
The HSUS

 Our cats have mastered the art of meow. I’m sure you’ve learned to recognize what your cat’s different meows mean – wake up, feed me, open the bedroom door and so on – depending on the volume, duration and intensity.

If your cat adopts a new vocalizing behavior, it may mean he or she is in some sort of pain. On the other hand, if your talkative cat stops vocalizing, it may also mean something hurts. It’s best to contact your veterinarian because cats often hide signs of illness until they’re seriously ill, and any change in behavior may be an early sign of a medical problem.

If your cat is new to your home or has just gone through a change – such as a person or other animal moving in or out – and she has just started talking, be patient. Yelling at your cat may scare him or her. If your cat thinks of your yelling as positive attention, he or she may continue to be noisy. If you ignore the chatter, it will probably stop on its own. If it doesn’t, contact your veterinarian.

Joelyne King's Cat, NarniaPhotographer: Meredith Lee
The HSUS

After the death or departure of a person or animal in your cat’s life, he or she may vocalize to express grief. This can be a normal part of the grieving process. The best thing you can do is keep your cat’s normal schedule the same (or as close to it as possible) and spend some extra time cuddling and playing during quiet moments. With time, the vocalizing should subside. If your cat does not return to his or her normal self, consult your veterinarian to make sure there is no underlying medical problem.

As cats age, their hearing may diminish. Daisy gradually became deaf in her older years and I didn’t understand that her frequent yowling meant that she could no longer hear. It’s not unusual for cats to vocalize if they suffer from arthritis and other painful ailments or senility. It’s easy to chalk up the talk to aging, but something more serious could be going on. Again, contacting your veterinarian is the best course of action.

Oriental breeds, such as Siamese cats, are known to be very talkative. If your cat has a pointed face and a long, lean body, chances are he or she has some Oriental heritage and “talking” is just a character trait. If your cat’s chatter bothers you, avoid giving attention when he or she talks, because that will only encourage the vocal behavior. Instead, give attention during quiet moments.

Cats may talk because they want your attention. If you talk back, feeding, petting or even picking him or her up and temporarily putting  them in another room – assuming your cat likes to be picked up – encourages the chatter. I know it can be hard to ignore a talkative cat, but you need to ignore the behavior in order to discourage it. Only pay attention to your cat when he or she is quiet: pour on the love, have playtime, or once in a while, reward with a treat. This will teach your cat which behaviors you would like to continue.

How often do you talk to your cat? To learn more about chatty cats, read “The Cat’s Meow: Understanding Your Feline Friend.”